For my sweetheart | Tunisian crochet baby hat

Many people who enjoy crochet are also avid knitters. I really enjoy knitting as well as the look and feel of a finished knitted piece. But I am a terribly slow and clumsy knitter! I was delighted to discover Tunisian crochet. Tunisian crochet (also called Afghan crochet) makes use of a long crochet hook to create your fabric.

There are plenty of stitches that have a very knit-like look, as well as many that are completely unique to Tunisian crochet. Tunisian crochet is very versitile, and can be used for anything from wearables to blankets and home decor items. One of my favourite Tunisian crochet designers, is Toni from TLYarn Crafts. Go check her out!

I have a set of interchangeable hooks (essentially a regular sized hook that you can lengthen with a chord) from Denise which I love. They are lightweight and easy to use, plus you can make any combo of hook and chord to suit your need, which is very useful.

Onwards to the Tunisian crochet baby hat pattern!

“FOR MY SWEETHEART” TUNISIAN CROCHET BABY HAT PATTERN

Requirements:

5.5 mm Tunisian crochet hook (25 – 30cm long)
6 mm Tunisian crochet hook (25 – 30 cm long)
DK/Light worsted yarn (Stylecraft DK in Mushroom / Duck Egg)
Yarn needle 
Pom pom (optional) I made my pom pom using a medium sized Clover pom pom maker.

Gauge: 5cm = 8 st x 10 rows of Tunisian Knit stitch (where a row = Forward pass + Return pass)

Size: To fit 0 – 6 month old baby

NOTES & SPECIAL STITCHES
Make sure to read all the notes before starting this pattern!

Each row consists of a forward pass (using the different stitches outlined in the pattern) and a standard Return pass. The Return pass is always worked in the same way, unless otherwise indicated. 

Return pass: After working your row, do not turn, work left to right as follows; Yarn over and pull through the first loop on hook (beginning st), *yarn over and pull through 2 st.  Repeat from * until 1 st remains on the hook. Row and return pass complete.

Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS): skip the very first bar (on the edge of your work), *insert hook, from front to back, in between the vertical bars of the next st. Yarn over and pull the loop back through the vertical bars.Repeat from * to end of row/stitch pattern. 

Tunisian Purl Stitch (TPS): skip the very first bar (on the edge of your work), *bring yarn forward (to the front of your work), insert your hook, from right to left, under the front most vertical bar. Bring the working yarn across the front of the vertical bar and to the back. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Repeat from * to end of row/stitch pattern

Tunisian Reverse Stitch (TRS): This stitch is worked in the back of your work, so you need to tilt your work forwards slightly to see where to insert your hook. Skip the very first bar (on the edge of your work), *insert hook from right to left, underneath the vertical bar at the back of your work, yarn over and pull up a loop. Repeat from * to end of row/stitch pattern.

Tunisian Knit Two Together (K2TOG): Insert hook, from right to left, under the first vertical bar (not all the way to the back). Then insert hook, from front to back, in between the vertical bars of the next st. Yarn over and pull the loop back through the vertical bars of both stitches.

Slip Stitch bind off:  skip the very first bar (on the edge of your work), insert hook knitwise (i.e. from front to back, in between the vertical bars of the next st) Yarn over and pull the loop back through the vertical bars. Pull the same loop through the loop that was already on your hook. Repeat across.

End stitch: The last st of each forward pass is worked in the same way. When you have reached the last st (that forms the edge of your work) of the row, insert your hook from right to left through both the front and back vertical loops (you may need to tilt your work slightly). There will be 2 bars on your hook. Yarn over and pull up a loop to complete the st.

Pattern

Start with 5.5mm hook.
Ch 57 st

Row 1: (Foundation row) Insert hook into the back bump of the 2nd ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop. Continue picking up loops until you reach the end of the chain. (57 loops on hook). Work a return pass.

Row 2: Work ribbing. *TPS, TKS, TKS. Repeat from * across. Work end st. Work return pass.

Row 3 – 5: Repeat Row 2

Change to 6mm hook

Row 6 – 7: TKS across, work end st. 

Work heart pattern as follows:

Row 8: TKS in the next 27 st, TRS, TKS in the next 27 st, work end st. Return pass.

Row 9: TKS in the next 26 st, TRS in next 3 st, TKS in the next 26 st, work end st. Return pass.

Row 10: TKS in the next 25 st, TRS in next 5 st, TKS in the next 25 st, work end st. Return pass.

Row 11: TKS in the next 24 st, TRS in next 7 st, TKS in the next 24 st, work end st. Return pass.

Row 12: TKS in the next 23 st, TRS in next 9 st, TKS in the next 23 st, work end st. Return pass.

Row 13: TKS in the next 22 st, TRS in next 11 st, TKS in the next 22 st, work end st. Return pass.

Row 14 – 17: Repeat Row 13 

Row 18: TKS in next 23 st, TRS in next 3 st, TKS in next 3 st, TRS in next 3 st, TKS in next 23 st, work end st. Return pass.

Row 19: TKS in next 24 st, TRS in next st, TKS in next 5 st, TRS in next st, TKS in next 24 st, work end st. Return pass.

Row 20 – 21: TKS across, work end st. Return pass.

Start shaping:
Your work will begin to buckle and curl at this point, don’t worry!

Row 22: *(TKS in next 6 st, K2TOG, K2TOG), repeat from * 4 more times, TKS in next 5 st, work end st. (47 loops on hook). Return pass

Row 23: *(TKS in next 4 st, K2TOG, K2TOG), repeat from * 4 more times, TKS in next 5 st, work end st (37 loops on hook). Return pass

Row 24: *(TKS in next 3 st, K2TOG), repeat from * 6 more times, work end st (30 loops on hook). Return pass

Row 25: *(TKS in next 3 st, K2TOG) repeat from * 4 more times, TKS in next 3, work end st (26 loops on hook). Return pass

Row 26: TKS, *(TKS in next 2 st, K2TOG), repeat from * 4 more times, TKS in next 2, work end st (20 loops on hook). Return pass

Row 27: *(TKS in next 2 st, K2TOG), repeat from * 3 more times, TKS in next 2, work end st (16 loops on hook). Return pass

Row 28: *(TKS, K2TOG), repeat from * 2 more times, K2TOG, work end st (12 loops on hook). Return pass

Bind off: Work a slst, TKS-wise, in the next 10 st, work through last st end-wise. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing up, and pull through last loop on hook.

Finishing off

1. Thread your yarn needle onto the yarn tail. Working clockwise, weave the yarn tail in and out of the bind off row. Pull tight to cinch closed.

2. Stitch the open sides of the hat together using mattress stitch / the invisible seam method: When you stretch the Tunisian crochet slightly sideways, you will see a vertical bar between the first and second stitches from the edge (between the “v” of each stitch). Insert the needle under the first bar on the left (pass the needle under it and back out). Insert the tapestry needle under the first bar on the right (pass the needle under it and back out). Work a few stitches and then pull the working yarn to close the seam. Continue working to the end of the seam, making sure that the sides match evenly. 

3. Block your hat so that it doesn’t curl.

4. If you are adding a pom pom, attach it now.

Looking for some more gorgeous baby projects? Hop over to the patterns page to have a look!

Until next time.

Yours in craft,
Caitie